porsche 911
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Q: Porsche 911?
I lust after an early 90s Porsche 911, full stop- jet black, targa top turbo with the tea-tray spoiler and all the trimmings.
Finally, after 20 years of dreaming I can finally afford one- morally, though, do you think I should get one?
Yes, it is my dream car and yes, I’ve wanted one for 20 years and yes, after all this time I’ve finally saved up enuogh to buy one.
But I really started wanted one before I learned about fuel consumption and the oil crisis, and I honestly don’t think I could run one with a clear conscience knowing that I’m burning up so much petrol every time I take a cruise down to the coast.
What do you think?
Serious answers only please!
A: Hi,your a honest person i think you have made your mind up
unless you want someone to ease your conscience
Q: How do you make your car sound like a Porsche 911 turbo?
How do you make your car sound like a Porsche 911 turbo?
A: You buy one.
Q: How much does a Porsche 911 cost in Sydney?
How much does a Porsche 911 cost in Sydney? OR can we hire it for day or a year?
A: If you need to ask, you cannot afford one.
Speak to my friends if you’d like to hire one.
Visit them at :http://www.sportscarrentals.com.au/
Q: How does it feel to drive/own a PORSCHE 911?
I was wondering if any Porsche ownsers would be willing to share their driving experience behind a Porsche 911.It is my favorite car and i am planning to buy it.PLEASE ONLY PEOPLE THAT OWN OR DROVE ONE.No idiots with corvetes(plumbers car)THANKS
A: The driving experience will depend alot on both the specific car and the driver… 911s are exciting and fun cars to drive, and cars with basically high limits. However, they are cars that demand a certain precision on the part of the driver as you approach the limits… and the older the 911 the more demanding it is, and the worse the bite if you happen to make a mistake.
As they come from the factory, all of the cars understeer (as does virtually ever car produced nowadays), and with the engine weight in the back, they are quick to go into trailing throttle oversteer. The steering in all of the cars feels light and responsive (even in the pre-1990 models that don’t have power steering, the lack of weight over the front wheels makes them easy to handle). The handling peculiarities of the 911 are such that some would have you believe that every skid mark left on the road is the result of an out of control 911… the cars handle extremely well, and they are very good at pointing you where you want to go (while the weight distribution is not ideal for balance, you have a front end with low polar momentum, and a back with high, making it a well place yet darty car, until things come loose… and the pivot point works out to be placed right at the front axel giving fantastic turn in). But when the cars are pushed (something most drivers will never do), they can prove to be a handful, and require skill to drive.
All of the cars feature fantastic brakes, with the rear weight bias here helping get the most from all four corners (though again, under stock setup, the fear of oversteer by manufacturers has left a too much margin for error in the back).
While I think the earlier cars sound the best (the sound of some of the early mechanically injected cars with a factory sports exhaust is simply soul stirring), they all sound like proper sports cars. The earlier the car, the more spartan it’s appointments, on to the modern cars which contain quite a bit of luxury. To a point, all of these cars had many more luxury appointments than their competitors at the time, but by modern standards, even the 80s cars will no seem less so.
Great cars, fun to own… and, I think, one of the only cars you can own that will make you a better driver.
Q: What concerns or cost would their be in a 1999 Porsche 911?
I am seeing a lot of 99′ 911’s that are very well-priced. What kind of considerations would you have in an 10 year-old Porsche. Servicing and such at this range, around 100k miles is average.
A: 1999 was the first year of the 996-body 911, and the first year with a water-cooled engine. This 3.4 litre engine was replaced with a 3.6 litre six cylinder in 2002. “Purists” and collectors hated the 996 because it wasn’t a “true” air-cooled 911.
Personally, I have a rule against buying the first year of any brand-new or major revision car. I’ve violated my rule before, but there does seem to be less market for a 1999 than for a 2000 on up.
There is a lot of nonsense put out about the prices of tires and service on 911s. I owned a 1996 993 (last of the air-cooled) 911 rear drive coupe for 5.5 years, and have now owned a 2005 (996) Turbo S (AWD) 911 coupe for nearly 2 years. Here’s my experience.
An oil change for either car runs about $250.00. HOWEVER, per the owner’s manual, you do them “every 15,000 miles or 1 year, whichever comes first.” That’s about one half to one third as often as most cars. Over time the price of oil changes is only slightly higher than say, a Subaru (I own two of those). My 1996 held 12 (yes, 12) quarts of Mobil 1 oil (dry sump system, with separate oil tank). The oil for a change costs $60 to $80; the Porsche filter is $19.95. My dealership said, “Why?” when I asked if I shouldn’t change the oil more frequently.
My Turbo S uses big, expensive tires: 8 X 18 on the front and 11 X 18 on the rear. Go to http://www.tirerack.com and check for yourself: a set of Pirelli PZeros for my car runs $1,172 for all four tires. A set of Bridgestone Potenza S-02As runs $1,264. These are two OEM tires with “N” Porsche specs. You’ll pay about $60 to have either set delivered to your front porch, or directly to your preferred shop. An older Porsche 911 won’t take as expensive a tire set.
For the track I like Kumho Ecsta SPTs at $770.00 a set, including delivery. You should know that you’ll only get 6,000 to 10,000 miles from the rear tires, depending on how you drive. The fronts, on a rear-drive car will get about double that. I’ve only put 10,000 miles on my 2005 so far, so I haven’t found out if the AWD means faster front tire wear (I’ve got two sets of wheels and tires for the car).
In the 5.5 years I owned the 993, I did 5 oil changes. I did the following repairs: I had the trim around the rear window re-secured, I replaced the rubber cover on the clutch pedal, and I replaced the switch for the rear window defroster. That’s all folks. I bought the car with 11,100 miles on the odometer, and sold it with 40,050. I tracked the car. I saw 150 mph in it, but it took about two miles to get there.
In the nearly 2 years I’ve owned the 996 Turbo, I have done 2 oil changes. I did the following repairs: absolutely nothing. I bought the car with 13,300 miles on the odometer. It now has 23,400 miles on the odometer. I’ve managed 150 mph on the 2/3-mile front straight at Miller Motorsport Park near Salt Lake City, the longest road course in North America.
The current model of 911 is the water-cooled 997 body car. Purists and collectors have calmed down about the end of the air-cooled 911s, and not as much hate is spewed over this latest Porsche. In fact, I hear that the 3.6 litre engine in my 2005 is now considered “perhaps the best Porsche has ever built.”
ADDED:
Most of the people in the Porsche Club of America that I know change their own oil.
Q: PORSCHEPHILES. What is the most affordable Porsche 911 in history?
I am an 18 year old who has loved Porsche 911s of all types all of my life. I particulary like the older SC’s, 3.2L’s, and pre 1974 cars. I have never really admired or had the desire to drive another car. I live in a lower class home and affording any Porsche will be hard for me. But I don’t want to call any other car my own, except a 911. I can’t stand it when I see rich guys driving their Boxters and new 996’s and 997’s and they don’t really appreciate the heritage of their cars. What’s the best place to go to find a half affordable older 911 that is still half decent?
A: In looking at used 911’s, the least expensive era will be the 1974-1977 2.7L 911S. Due to well known and documented issues with the 2.7L engine, these cars tend to run far less than the cars that came just before and just after them. It’s also a less popular model as many potential buyers looking for impact bumper era cars gravitate towards the SC and 3.2L Carrera, while people looking for early cars often gravitate to the long hood cars of 1973 and earlier. The end result is lower than expected prices for these cars.
The good news on these cars is almost all the examples that are still running have likely had the problems fixed (should have had an engine rebuild with either divilar or Racewear head studs, and upgraded cooling fan). The bad news is that these are early 911s and even though they have galvanized bodies, rust will be a major concern.
1974 is probably the most desirable year of these cars, and it may well be possible to find one in good condition with all of the corrective work well documented… and such a car would be a fun and reliable car. “Cheap” in this case would be in the $10-11k range. Might luck into one for a little less, but anything under this price range would mean extra care in the prepurchase inspection to ensure there was not some reason why it was being sold for so little.
As others have mentioned, if the car has problems, it can become very expensive to set right. And likewise, even if it is in good condition, you will need to keep in mind there will be possible expense in keeping up the car as part prices tend to reflect the fact that these were premium cars when new. And, that even though these older cars can be very reliable and usable for daily drivers, they are best suited as second cars. All of which adds up to a car that is not ideally suited to an 18 year old looking to do this inexpensively.
If you are set on buying, figure out your price range, and then find a knowledgable Porsche mechanic that you will work with for a pre-purchase inspection (this could easily be the best money paid when buying a used Porsche). With these in place, you must then be willing to take your time to find the right car. And given your situation, it may be that the longer you take in finding the right car, the better it will be (giving you longer to save, etc etc). If possible though, you may be better off to revisit this plan in a couple years when you may have a higher price range and wider choice of cars.
Q: Can the Porsche 911 fit people in the rear seats?
I have heard that the Porsche 911’s back seats are so small only a baby can fit. Is this true? Even if the driver and passenger gave as much room to the back seats as they can? If the rear seats are too small for use, then why are their any?
A: It’s a misnomer – those back seats are really upholstered parcel shelves for your briefcase, laptop, etc. 911’s and most all Porsches are intended for the driver+1 front seat passenger.
Q: Why does my Porsche 911 beep when I start it?
About a second after I start it up (1999 Porsche 911) there is one short beep. Why does it do this and how do I make it stop?
All of the idiot lights do light up, but I don’t notice other 911’s beeping when they start. Pretty embarrassing when people think I’m beeping at them 
A: Most cars will ‘test’ the warning signals when you start the car. Do all the idiot lights on the dash board light-up also ?? That’s what it’s doing.
Q: Is it possible/advisable to buy a used Porsche 911 SC in Eastern Europe?
Porsche 911
I’m a diplomat living in Lithuania and want to buy a late 70’s/early ’80’s 911 sometime in the next few years. I was thinking I might be able to pick one up here as goods are usually cheaper. But I really don’t see any older models on the road, not do I see many classifieds here. If anyone has any experience/thoughts on this, it would be most welcome.
A: only if you can get is cheap enough that its not ognna be a big problem when it turns out to be stolen. also, chances of that happening increase a lot if you plan to drive it to civilization.
Q: How much does it cost to own a 1984-89 Porsche 911?
If I were to buy an older Porsche 911 from a dealer, how much would it cost per year as a result of owning one, provided that I don’t get into any accidents? (Insurance, fuel, simple maintenance, etc. into the equation)
The situation includes: family, male primary driver, no accidents, commuter to work/school, insurance based in safer neighborhood of San Diego, CA. (SoCal)
Thanks for any helpful answers!
A: Don’t buy from a dealer if you can help it.
Just by privately and have the car checked by a good mechanic.
You will save nearly a third.
Insurance is not that much more. Probably 30%.
Maintenance and parts are not that bad, as long as you find a good mechanic.
The oddest thing to watch out for is that if you start it with the pedal too far, you can backfire and blow up the mainifold. It is a plastic box, and easily damaged. Look for signs of it being glued back together. Use the manual throttle positioner to start the car, not the gas pedal.
Q: What would be a good towcar to tow a Porsche 911?
What would be a good towcar to tow the Porsche 911 Carrera S on a trailer. It weighs 1500Kg. Does not really matter about price.
Thanks
4×4 or Estate or Saloon or whatever
A: Are you a Porsche Lover. If so how can you not use a, Porsche Cayenne. Especially if price is not an issue.
Otherwise I would go for a classic pick up like a ford 5 window. Take a look at the Antique or Classic trucks at this site. http://www.classyauto.com/
Q: What is the Targa version of porsche from 911 turbo, carrera, and convertible?
i know that porsche 911’s got normal one, turbo S, and carrera and convertible.
but i’ve seen one that says Targa 4, what’s the different between them? Does Targa 4 has turbo too?
is there a targa 1, 2, 3,4? what’s the difference between them?
A: Targa means removable roof panel. The 4 means all wheel drive.
Q: how much for a decent 1984 Porsche 911 carrera paint job?
how much would it cost to get a decent paint job on a 1984 Porsche 911 carrera? I would want it to be black, if that matters.
A: At it’s most basic, a paint job is a paint job – and there is actually very little difference in the actual spray work you will get from a budget shop compared to a high end shop.
But what makes a paint job isn’t the spray, it’s the prep work and in some cases the paint. As for the spraying, as long as they are patient, that part should be fine.
So what you are paying for is prep work. And if you stay with factory paint, you’ll find Glasurit to be a good deal more costly than other options out there (though it looks great).
Porsches of this era have a lot of rubber and plastic trim, which makes prep for a repaint complicated… because of this, a good job will be costly.
A top notch job would require a complete disassembly of the car, stipping it back to bare metal, repairing any body damage, and then painting and reassembling. This will most like cost more than an ‘84 Carrera is currently worth, though with the economy as it is, you might find a reputable shop that would undertake this for as little as $10k (probably not though).
A job that involves some disassemby and careful masking, but is just a respray over the existing paint, would run in the $5-6k range. Just a resrpay with just masking would be in the $3-4k range.
From those prices… using a paint other than Glasurit would save about $1k in material costs, maybe a little more. Going with a single stage paint would be a little less, while going for a concours level finish would be more (Porsche used quite a few coats at the factory during this time, and such a repaint would likely be closest to factory quality). Limiting the prep work (such as you’d find at the budget places) will knock off another $1-2k.
The only budget approach to an excellent paint job would be to take the car apart yourself, do the media blasting and basic prep, and devlivery it in this state to any bodyshop which can then complete the painting and polishing before returning back to you to reassemble. If this isn’t possible, you will be facing either a very costly job or one who’s results are likely not going to be close to what you want.
Q: Will a baby seat fit in the backseat of a Porsche 911?
I’m curious about toddler seats, not infant seats. I’m considering getting a 2003-2004 Porsche 911 convertible, and I’m wondering if it’s possible to put the seat into the backseat, on the passenger side.
A: a toddler seat would be a bit tight if you’re gonna fit it into the backseat passenger, a 911 dont have enough leg room nor head room when the top’s up at the back, this isnt a family car, id rather suggest you go buy a bmw or mercedes if you plan on gettin a toddler seat in it.
Q: Wheres the fuel pump on a 86 porsche 911 targa?
I have this 86 porsche 911 targa, an dit needs a fuel pump, any ideas on how hard it is the change out and the cost of a new one??
A: The pump is by the fuel tank. It is shaped like a cylinder or a fuel filter only with wires on it. The pump cost about $180 to $250 depending on where you purchase. Check that there is voltage to the pump when turn the ignition on. You should also check the check valve which is screwed into the pumps and is also a banjo fitting. It could be clogged. If you change out the pump make sure the tank has been emptied and you have a catch pan to collect the fuel since the pump inlet is a low point of the system.
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